North India Tour 2023 Land of the Tiger, Forktails and Ibisbill

NORTH INDIA TOUR  1st-16^th December 2023

An international tour of 16 days undertaken in conjunction with Oriole Birding, bookings via their website for 2024 tour

The tour took in four areas each with its own character brought about by habitat and altitude and thus we encountered a wide variety of avifauna, mammals and other aspects of Natural History.

Firstly, we arrived in Delhi and then visited Bharatpur – set in a vast, flat plain, a World Heritage site and a wetland home to large numbers of nesting egrets, herons, ibis and storks against a backdrop of raptors, owls and passerines in the drier areas. We stayed at The Birders’ Inn for 4 nights situated just three hundred metres from the entrance gates and spent just over 3 and half days in this area.

We then travelled North and spent one night in River’s Edge Hotel, before we moved onto the Corbett National Park, staying about a mile from the park entrance at The Golden Tusk. For three mornings and two afternoons we were transported by safari jeep with lots of birds and mammals seen during our visits.

Next, we moved on to Vangat Lodge for 2 nights in the Corbett buffer zone. Vangat has no vehicle access and we walked just over a mile to reach the camp and then took the rather exciting river crossing to the camp on a raft! Vangat is far away from the bustle, dust and noise of Indian towns, set in a stunning surroundings, in a steep sided forested river valley next to the glacial waters of the Ramganga river.

Finally, we climbed higher towards the foothills of the Himalayas and birded the forest areas around Sattal staying at the appropriately named Birders’ Den complete with bird feed station and hides.

ACCOMMODATION

The accommodation during the trip was of a high standard. All provided hot water and clean, Western style toilets. Staff were very friendly and went out of their way to help us. Food would be categorised as curry but while not as hot as what might be available in your local UK curry house, all of it was tasty and plentiful.

TOUR IMAGES – All images in this report are copyrighted and should not be use without our permission.

Friday 1^st December 2023 – UK Heathrow Departure

The group met up at Heathrow early morning around 8am in good time to get through the required security and baggage drop formalities. This all passed quickly without incident and

the British Airways flight got away on time around 1120am, the food was good and the flight comfortable.

Saturday 2^nd December – Dehli to Bharatpur

With a time difference of five and a half hours, we arrived in Delhi just before 0200 local time. We were collected in a 10 seater minibus by our driver. Even at this time of day is a bustling busy city! We were soon at the gates of the Ashok Country Resort Hotel arriving at 0330am local time and retired to our rooms, for a few hours much needed sleep!

I made it out around 0730am and joined the group for a brief hour of pre-breakfast birding in the grounds of the hotel, Jaypee our guide throughout the tour also joined us and was introduced to the group. Indian Peafowl and House Crow strutted around on the lawn and buildings, the trees held Oriental White-eye, Lesser Whitethroat, Brown-headed Barbet, Black Drongo, Red-vented Bulbul, several Purple Sunbirds buzzed around the treetops, whilst the first of the ubiquitous Jungle Babblers bounced along the paths. There was 2-3 Hume’s warblers calling though we heard these better than we saw them! Overhead, a procession of Black Kites made their way across the city together with a small number of Little Swifts. Common Myna and Ring-necked Parakeets were numerous around the gardens. Just as we were heading to breakfast a very smart Black-rumped Flameback, landed aside one of the walls of the hotel, apparently gleaning insects from the brickwork!

After a mixed English/Indian breakfast, we were soon loaded up and heading off on the long drive towards Bharatpur. As we drove along the roads, we were soon spotting our first White-throated Kingfishers and Black-winged Kites, both favour sitting on roadside wires! Our first mammals were of course the cheeky and abundant Rhesus Macaques.

During the journey we made a couple of stops at roadside pools, where alongside numerous Black-winged Stilts, was a plethora of other birds! The more familiar were Northern Shoveler, 5 Wood Sandpipers, Green Sandpiper, Redshank, 2 Greenshank, 3 Ruff, Great, Little & Cattle Egrets, Purple Heron, but also the leas familiar with Intermediate Egrets, 5 Painted Stork, Indian Spot Billed Ducks, 2 Bronze-winged Jacana, Black-headed & Red Naped Ibis.  The edges of the pools also provided 5 Yellow, 2 Citrine & a White-browed Wagtail.

The nearby roadside scrub and bushes also offered up Black Drongo, a Greater Coucal, Ashy & Plain Prinia, 2 Pied Bushchat, Scaly-breasted Munia and a lovely Isabelline Shrike!

Overhead Black and Black-shouldered Kites drifted above us together with four Egyptian Vultures and Red-rumped Swallows. Our first proper roadside stop had offered up 47 species!

Just before we stopped off for early afternoon lunch, we were treated to a group of several very confiding Egyptian Vultures also enjoying their own roadside snack! Continuing our journey, there were flocks of Cattle Egrets, a couple of Greater Coucal, , Black Drongo, Asian Pied and Brahminy Starlings.

Just before arriving in Bharatpur we made one more final stop, as the sun was starting to drop. It proved to me an inspired decision! We had only been at the pool for a minute or son when three superb Sarus Cranes arrived, trumpeting calls to announce their arrival and landing close by and allowing wonderful views!

Darkness was falling as we arrived at the Birders’ Inn in Bharatpur. We settled into our rooms and after a welcome hot shower, we met for dinner and enjoyed a meal of various vegetarian curries, a cold beer and the evening roll call yielded 62 species of birds.

Overnight Birders Inn, Bharatpur.

Sunday 3^rd December – Bharatpur/Keoladeo NP

An early breakfast ensured that we were ready at first light to meet our guide Brijendra Singh and our three rickshaw drivers. Brijendra is very knowledgeable and has been guiding at Bharatpur for over twenty years and has a great relationship with the rickshaw drivers and the parks staff, this helps as bird & wildlife news gets passed along!

Once through the entrance gates the birding was underway immediately on foot and we were soon enjoying lots of birds. The birding in the park was immediate, intense and very exciting!! It was slow progress through the park, as the birds came thick and fast.

Over the next few hours we saw an amazing array of birds, exploring the main and side track to the nursery area.

The highlights in the morning were as follows:- 4 Lesser Whistling-duck, 5 Indian Peafowl, Grey Francolin, 5 Laughing Dove, 10 Yellow-fotted Green Pigeon, 2 Greater Coucal, 2 Common Moorhen, 5 White-breasted Waterhen, 10 Black-winged Stilt, 10 Red-wattled Lapwing, 3 Green Sandpiper, Common Snipe, Greenshank, Common Redshank,  4 Painted Stork, Little Cormorant, Indian Cormorant, Great Cormorant, Little Egret, Cattle Egret, Great Spotted Eagle, Indian Grey Hornbill, 3 White-throated Kingfisher, Black-rumped Flameback, 20+ Ring-necked Parakeet, 4 Long-tailed Shrike, 5 Black Drongo, 4 Ashy Drongo, 5 Rufous Treepie, 2 Large-billed Crow, Barn Swallow, 1 Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher, 20 Red-vented Bulbul,  White-eared Bulbul, 5 Hume’s Warbler, several Siberian Chiffchaff, 2 Greenish Warbler, 2 Blyth’s Reed Warbler, 3 Common Tailorbird, 10 Ashy Prinia, 5 Plain Prinia, 5 Lesser Whitethroat, 6 Common Babbler, 2 Large Grey Babbler, 3 Yellow-eyed Babbler, 6 Indian Robin, 8 Oriental Magpie-Robin, Bluethroat, 2 Red-breasted Flycatcher, 10 Brahminy Starling, 30 Common Myna, 5 Purple Sunbird, 2 Grey Wagtail, Citrine Wagtail & 10 Indian Silverbill and 6 Scaly-breasted Munia.

I guess the stand-out moment of the morning was a good thirty-minute vigil looking for Siberian Rubythroat, it started calling but was invisible, it then gave tantalising glimpses, before giving us good views playing hide and seek in the shrubs!

With the hotel being so close by we were able to return there for lunch just after midday and were soon back in the park after a deserved break. This time we explored further into the park, heading further along the main track and into the open water areas and the Stork and cormorant colony. This area was fantastic both for observation and photography with hundreds of Storks and Cormorants still feeding youngsters at their nests.

 This is traversed by tree lined tracks on raised up banks. The numbers and variety of water birds was staggering; 100’s of Painted Storks, Black-headed Ibis, Little, Great White & Intermediate Egrets, Purple and Grey Herons, Indian, Little and Great Cormorants all giving excellent prolonged views. Just before we reached the main colony, Brijendra stopped us and showed us a superb roosting Indian Nightjar at eye level on a horizontal branch, followed shortly after by a real highlight, a Black Bittern deep inside the thick waterside scrub, then 2 roosting Spotted Owlets.

Other highlights in the afternoon were as follows:- 20 Lesser Whistling-Duck, 10 Knob-billed Duck, 5 Garganey, 10 Northern Shoveler, 4 Gadwall, 50 Eurasian Teal, 100 Eurasian Coot, 2 Wood Sandpiper, 20 Painted Stork, 12 Oriental Darter, 50 Little Cormorant, 30 Great Cormorant, 50 Indian Cormorant, Black Bittern, 4 Purple Heron, 6 Great White Egret, 4 Intermediate Egret, 10 Little Egret, 3 River Tern, 20 Indian Pond Heron, 10 Glossy Ibis, 15 Black-headed Ibis, 15 Bronze-winged Jacana, 2 Pheasant-tailed Jacana, Black-winged Kite, 4 Greater Spotted Eagle, Crested Serpent Eagle, 2 Western Marsh Harrier, Eastern Imperial Eagle, Black Kite, Shikra, 4 Common Kingfisher, 10 White-throated Kingfisher, 2 Pied Kingfisher, 100 Streak-throated Swallow, Wire-tailed Swallow, 6 Hume’s Warbler, 10 Common Chiffchaff, 2 Greenish Warbler, 2 Blyth’s Reed Warbler, 10 Ashy Prinia, 10 Plain Prinia, 5 Lesser Whitethroat, 12 Common Babbler, 5 Large Grey Babbler, 50 Asian Pied Starling, & 5 Citrine Wagtail.

Raptors were represented by Crested Serpent Eagle, several Marsh Harrier, Greater Spotted and a superb adult Eastern Imperial Eagle.

We also added to our mammal list, with several troops of Rhesus Macaque, a small group of Wild Boar, a stunning adult male Nilgai, stood proud out on the marsh, this is the largest antelope in Asia weighing up to 250kgs! Several Spotted Deer, also plenty of Indian Palm Squirrels, very approachable and rather cute!

We reached the Hotel in the evening around 5.45pm just as the sun was setting, after showers we all had dinner and the bird log call, qave us a running total of 107 species.

Overnight Birders Inn, Bharatpur.

© Knob-billed Duck & Shikra Adrian Roach

© Sarus Crane & Grey-headed Swamphen

© Black-necked Stork & Dusky Eagle Owl

© Jungle Owlet & Bonell’s Eagle

© Southern Coucal & Siberian Rubythroat

Monday 4^th December  Bharatpur

This morning was a surprise, it was raining! The first time ever I had witnessed proper rain at Bharatpur in December on this tour, it didn’t dampen our spirits and we headed on deeper into the park, starting at the Stork colony where we had finished our birding yesterday.

As we headed along the main track we encountered many of the wetland species that we had seen the day before, but then an unfamiliar species appeared and flew along the tops of the bushes, it was clearly a Cuckoo species and the white panel in the wings readily identified it as Jacobin or Pied Cuckoo, a late migrant from the summer and a new species for myself!

We then moved to another part of the wetland area we had not visited the day before, taking the Westerly track at the Southern end of the park. More open water and scattered busy islands produced new trip species.

First one Wryneck was feeding at the base of a line of tree stumps and was obliging enough to give everyone telescope views, when we noted a second Wryneck! Other new species this morning were group of Bar-headed Goose, 2 Grey Lag Geese, 50 Gadwall, 10 Eurasian Wigeon, Pintail, 30 Red-crested Pochard, Common Pochard, 6 Tufted Duck, 60 Grey-headed Swamphen, Booted Eagle,  noteworthy was the ‘near threated’ designated Black-necked Stork with a brooding female sat on a nest, really nice views of several Pied Kingfisher, 2 Yellow Crowned Woodpecker, 2 Clamorous Reed warblers, noisy and eventually gave themselves up with a showy Blyth’s Reed Warbler close by, we also got by far our best views of a showy Bluethroat this morning. Another, stand out moment was the loud fluty call of Indian Golden Oriole which then sat out in full view.

The morning’s birding was rounded off very nicely with a Dusky Eagle Owl that was sat at it’s nest visible from a high platform, alongside the roosting Black-crowned Night-herons and an amazing roost of 100+ Greater Indian Fruit bats, one of the largest bats in the world with a wingspan of 1.2m.

We were slightly late back for lunch at 1pm after a lively morning session of birding, we had a quick lunch before heading back out at 2pm.

We headed into a park for our last session at Bharatpur, heading to the Southeast track from the centre point, before heading off to the platform at the SW area of the park.

A real final Bharatpur treat was standing on the raised viewpoint with sunset views, watching over a fantastic roost of wildfowl, waders and raptors. As we headed along the westward track there was masses of wildfowl, 50 Bar-headed Geese, Ruddy Shelduck, Lesser Whistling Duck, 100 Northern Shoveler, 200 Northern Pintail, 100 Eurasian Teal, 20 Gadwall, also  Common Greenshank, Wood Sandpiper, Spotted Redshank was heard, 10 Black-headed Ibis, 100’s of Grey-headed Swamphen, hundreds of Egrets, then Brijendra stopped us as he had located a much scarcer visitor to the park, 3 Grey-headed Lapwing!

We had just enough time to pop back to get further views of the Dusky Eagle Owl and were also rewarded with much better views of the pair of Black-necked Storks. We left the park and bid farewell to our wonderful rickshaw drivers and headed into the Hotel for tea and biscuits.  After a filling curry, rice pudding and a beer plus an systematic list roll taking us on to 135 species.

Overnight Birders Inn, Bharatpur.

Tuesday 5^th December  – Chambal River visit

After discovering that the area had degraded in the farmland area last year near Bharatpur, we made the decision this year to change the itinerary and visit a different location. So today consisted of a journey over to the famous Chambal river area with a boat ride. With stops in other drier non-agricultural areas en-route, and a stop at a dammed reservoir area on the way back.

Our first stop was in an area of suitable arid, rocky habitat near Khansurjapur with some small pools. Here we encountered several of the typical species of this habitat,  Indian Bush-Lark,  Bengal Bush lark, Crested Lark, Ashy-crowned Sparrow Lark,  Isabelline Shrike and Desert Wheatears, Long-billed and Tawny Pipits.  Other noteworthy species were Hoopoe, Indian Roller and a really nice surprise was a very smart Red-necked Falcon, perched on the wires. The nearby scrub also a flock of Red Avadavat and the pools held a Rosy Pipit as well as a nice selection of waders, and another notable bird a Brown Crake.

It was then a steady drive to the Chumbal river, it was an almost surreal location down a muddy track to a temporary pontoon where we boarded our luxury (wooden boat!). The next couple of hours were fantastic as we quietly motored upstream at times gently drifting and getting close and personal with birds and crocodiles! Both Gharial and Mugger were in good numbers, sat out on the edge of the sandbanks, some really large adults approaching 4m in length. We had a nice selection of birds, with quite a few Greater Thick-knee, several River Lapwing, quite a few waders including new species for the trip – Kentish Plover, Marsh Sandpiper, 15 Temminck’s stint & Little Stint. At least 3 Pallas’s Gulls, groups of Brown-headed Gull. A Bonelli’s Eagle sat atop the river cliffs, with another adult flying along the cliffs was memorable, but the bird that will live in my memory was stunning breeding plumage Black-bellied Terns, at least 3 of these beauties!

After the boat trip we found a shaded bar to have our packed lunches, we then set off for a nearby large reservoir near Dholpur and Nibhi. This held masses of wildfowl, but mainly species we had already recorded at Bharatpur, however a Great White Pelican flew in, 5 Asian Openbills and the dry ground nearby held a Paddyfield Pipit. Further on our return journey another roadside stop and an Indian Roller, allowed close approach giving wonderful perched and flight views. Final stop provided more of the same, with lots of wildfowl but with very close views of Pied Kingfisher.

Overnight Birders Inn, Bharatpur.

Wednesday 6th December Bharatpur to Corbett NP.

With bags packed and minibus loaded, we said our farewells to Birders’ Inn staff and headed northwards. It was a long day of travel in the minibus, with minibreaks every couple of hours, birding en-route gave views, albeit fleeting, of Black and Black-shouldered Kites, Egyptian Vulture, Shikra, White-throated Kingfishers, Black-winged Stilts and Common Redshank, Asian Openbills, Woolly-necked, Painted Storks, White-breasted Waterhen, White Wagtail, Indian Pond Heron and Green Sandpiper, Long-tailed Shrike and Grey Hornbill.

We encountered the full range of traffic using Indian roads; tractors pulling trailers loaded so high with harvested sugar cane, motor bikes carrying up to four people and a range of unexpected goods.

It was late afternoon, as we neared our accommodation, and we stopped off late afternoon for a cup of tea and some freshly fried bhaji and pakora’s in a small village north of Kashipur.

We were in a rural area adjoining woodland and a flock of Plum-headed Parakeet flew over as well as 2 Oriental Pied Hornbills.

We eventually reached the River Edge Hotel on the edge of Corbett NP. On arrival, all members of the group were presented with a traditional garland of marigolds and fresh lemon juice. We were now in very different habitat, fast glacial river surrounded by lush steep sided forest!

Overnight River Edge Hotel, Corbett NP

Thursday 7th December Ramganga River and Corbett NP Bijrani range

We were up and ready at 6.30am at reception for tea and coffee, then headed to the nearby Kosi river, this glacial river strewn with boulders is the location and haunt of the much sought after Ibisbill!

We started our search just to the North of the bridge and temple. Before we got started on the river, the nearby bushes gave us our first flock of forest birds, a lovely mixed group with White-throated Fantail, a stunning Rufous-bellied Niltava, 4 Black chinned Babbler, Hume’s Warbler, Oriental White-eye, Grey-hooded Warbler,  and Siberian Chiff-chaff.

Then a steady wander upstream saw some more notable and new birds:- 12+ River Lapwing, Common Sandpiper, 2 Green Sandpiper, 2 Striated Heron, 2 White-throated Fantail, 1 Grey-headed Canary- Flycatcher, Hume’s Warbler, Oriental White-eye, 6 Plumbeous Redstart, 4 White-capped Redstart and 5 White-and browed Wagtail.

A brief Wallcreeper, prolonged views came along later in the trip! Two Crested Kingfishers were superb, but we still hadn’t located our big target species!

But then a call from another guide further upstream, he had located the Ibisbill and we quickly worked our way 800m further up the river. I was relieved to get everyone on to the first Ibisbill, before two more appeared, we were then treated to wonderful views over the next hour as the 3 Ibisbill fed showing very well in full sunlight providing great views!

We arrived back for a hearty mid-morning breakfast, it went down very well after an adrenaline fuelled couple of hours birding along the river.

After breakfast we took short drive and birded in the edge of the Corbett buffer zone, it was nearly midday, and quite hot so the forest was relatively quiet, though we dug out 3 Lineated Barbet, a Black-rumped Flameback, 5 Grey-breasted Prinia, several Red-whiskered Bulbul, White-throated Fantail and overhead we noted our first Himalayan Vultures.

After a casual lunch, a short drive took us to the Golden Tusk Hotel close to the entrance to the Corbett NP. We got our gear into our rooms and then were collected and headed out for our first jeep safari. At the Bijrani gate, formalities were completed quickly and we were able to enter the park.

We entered an area of grassland, scrub and woodland with dried up river beds. Not far from the gate we had our first views of Red Jungle Fowl skulking through the undergrowth.

In the course of the afternoon noteworthy birds were 3 Blue-bearded Bee-eaters, such stunning birds they gave quite a show as they glided from tree to tree, several Black-hooded Oriole, 3 Changeable Hawk-eagle, 3 Black-winged Kite, 4 Streak-throated Woodpecker, Red-rumped and Wire-tailed Swallow, several Grey Bushchat, plus Tawny and Tree Pipit.

Though we did see Spotted Deer, Sambar deer (the Tiger’s favoured prey!), Indian Muntjac and good numbers of Spotted Deer.

Overnight at Golden Tusk

© Brahminy Starling & Ibisbill

© Indian Roller & Gharial Crocodile

© Greater Thick-knee & Pied Kingfisher

Friday 8^th December  Corbett NP Jhirna Range

After an early morning tea & biscuits in reception, we were in our jeeps for a 6.15am departure from the hotel.

It was a busy morning of birds, with a lot more activity than on the previous afternoon in the woodland with several Red Junglefowl, 2 Pin-tailed Green Pigeon were the first of the trip, , a great selection of Barbets with 3 Lineated, 3 Brown-headed, 2 Blue-throated & 3 Coppersmith Barbets, 1 Blue-throated Barbet, Shikra, Black-hooded Oriole, Streak-throated Woodpecker,  Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker, Scarlet, Small & Long-tailed Minivet flocks were stunning as crimson reds dashed over the forest tree tops, a good flock of Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike, White-throated fantail, several Hair-crested Drongo, a group of Common Woodshrike, Common Iora, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, the only White-rumped Shama of the trip, Cinereous Tit, Pale-rumped Warbler, , Grey-hooded Warbler, Grey-breasted Prinia, Black-crested Bulbul, Ashy Bulbul, Himalayan Bulbul, White-crested laughing-thrush, White-throated laughing-thrush and Blue Whistling Thrush,

Above the trees, parties of 50+ Crested Tree Swifts hawked for insects and higher still there were soaring a group of Himalayan Vultures in the company of Red-headed Vulture. In the more open grassland areas flocks of Plum headed Parakeets were feeding, alongside mixed flocks of Red-vented, Whiskered and Himalayan Bulbuls and small number so Purple Sunbirds.

Our guides showed us fresh Tiger pugmarks, but despite a couple of false alarms, the stripey cats were so far keeping a low profile.

Lunch was taken at the hotel and there was time for a brief walk around the hotel grounds seeing Red-breasted Flycatcher and Lemon-rumped Warbler before returning to the park when it reopened at 1.30.

Typically, in the afternoon the forest was quieter for bird activity, but the first new bird was a Kalij Pheasant in the shadows, followed by 2 Black-crested Bulbul, then the aptly named Stork-billed Kingfisher perched in a tree by a bend in the river, while Common Kingfisher sat on the riverside rocks. As we entered the forest, a group of fast flying ‘swifts’ were overhead, eventually coming closer for better views they were a nice group of White-rumped Spinetails, another addition to the bird list. Also whilst in the forest we came across 2 Yellow-throated martens, these swift moving mustelids, almost like very large stoats and equally as efficient hunters!

Other new birds encountered were 3 Great Hornbills, these huge Hornbills, are truly amazing with their huge bills and bodies perched in the outer most branches, delicately picking tiny fruit! We were rally spoilt with really close views of these scarce, beautiful birds, nearby we also had views of 2-3 Oriental Hornbills as well.

Alarm calls of Spotted Deer late afternoon, were an indicator of a Tiger nearby and the excitement grew but nothing more for a while. We then stopped for a loo stop, with not too much time left before we needed to depart, suddenly there was close by alarm calls again, and we saw a couple of jeeps heading swiftly towards the open river bed, did they have something? We moved quickly to join them, and there crossing the riverbed at about 100m away was a Tiger, not close but in plain view for a good 30 seconds until it disappeared! Everyone was ecstatic and we headed back out of the park, and enjoyed celebratory tea taken on the lawn as the sun went down, back at the Golden Tusk.

As well as the clear Tiger highlight, the bird list had now reached 225 species on our 7^th day of full birding!

Overnight at Golden Tusk

Saturday 9^th December Corbett National Park Jhirna range (morning) Narsinghpur area & Tumariya Reservoir (afternoon)

After an early morning tea & biscuits in reception, we were in our jeeps for a 6.15am departure from the hotel.

Another good morning of birding, but new species in the park were now slowing, as the law of diminishing returns started to kick in! But great repeat views of both Oriental & Pied Hornbill again this morning, other new birds were a Peregrine, proper views of White-crested Laughingthrush with other highlights: –

Asian Emerald Dove, 60+ Crested Treeswift, 1 Black Vulture, 1 Himalayan Griffon, 2 Changeable Hawk-Eagle, 5 Common Iora, Long-tailed Shrike, 3 Black-hooded Oriole, 1 White-bellied & Hair-crested Drongo, 10 Oriental White-eye, 5 Jungle Babbler, Indian Robin, Blue Whistling-Thrush & Slaty-blue Flycatcher.

In the afternoon we decided to visit another area, where there was a Vulture colony and then travel on through some diverse farmed areas to a reservoir area near Narsinghpur. This proved to be a good decision, giving us great views of some additional birds and quite different habitat.

Our first stop was on a river bridge, where there was a few Dusky Crag Martin ‘insecting’ just above head height. We next stopped off by a river and river plain. There was 20 Black-winged Stilt and 2 Greater Coucal showing very well on arrival, then just behind us perched int eh trees were 15 Woolly-necked Stork. Circling in the skies and at times lovely close overhead were a wonderful selection of 5 Egyptian Vulture, 5 Cinerous Vulture, 25 Himalayan Vulture, 5 Steppe Eagle and a single Bonelli’s Eagle plus eventually another new species a Black Stork drifted over as well, a lovely selection! Plus closer inspection and  views of hawking ‘brown’ Martins with obvious chest bands proved to be Sand Martins.

We continued towards the reservoir but made a stop in some mixed farmland on the way. Nice diversity with more new birds, being 12 Chestnut-tailed Starling, 15 Yellow-breasted Greenfinch, 20 Spotted Dove, a Hoopoe, Citrine and White Wagtail plus a Long-billed Pipit.

We then headed on to the reservoir area, this held masses of wildfowl including a flock of c500 Bar-headed Geese, the largest flock I’ve ever seen! Plus plenty of  Ruddy Shelduck, Shoveler, Gadwall, Wigeon, Teal, Red-crested Pochard, Pochard, Tufted Duck, Little Grebe, a new trip species Great crested Grebe, Grey-headed Swamphen, River Lapwing, Bronze-winged Jacana, Pallas’s and Brown-headed Gull, all 4 species of Egret, and 3 species of Cormorant, White-throated and Common Kingfisher.

After the reservoir we made it back to the vulture colony area just as the sun was setting, and were treated to close views of 4+ Golden Jackal. There was time on the drive back for a couple of stops as 2 Jungle Owlets perched out posing for photography on top of buildings!

We were quite late back but fortunately just caught evening tea, hot samosas, fries and biscuits in the garden!

Overnight at Golden Tusk

Sunday 10^th December Corbett NP to Vangat

For our last morning in Corbett we were in the park soon after 6.30am and were in the grassland Jhirna zone. The safari started well with 2 White-naped Woodpeckers, a nice surprise not a species we record regularly on this tour. Another real surprise and outside of its usual range was a beautiful and stunning, Orange-breasted Green Pigeon, close and warming itself in the early rays of sun on this frosty morning. Shortly after this another good bird, a Bush-warbler showed unusually well allowing identification, Chestnut-crowned Bush warbler, plus Black-chinned Babbler, Common Iora, then a Southern Grey Shrike appeared on top of the bushes . Other noteable birds were good views of Grey Francolin, followed by a roosting Spotted Owlet brief views of a Wryneck. Overhead , a soaring Crested Honey Buzzard, Red-headed Vulture plus several Asian House Martin. Back in the grassland a Bengal Bushlark showed well on the track, plius nearby a Scaly- breasted Woodpecker was feeding close by on the ground.

With a short while left we start heading towards the main track to start driving towards the exit gate, though on the road 3-4 jeeps were stopped waiting. Just as we approached one of our guides heard the low grumbling growl of a Tiger, it was fairly close and it called again. Several more jeeps joined. We were waiting on the main track with forest either side, but it was a known crossing area and the Tiger sounded close. The silence was deafening and the expectation fuelled the whole intensity. All eyes stared ahead and then suddenly an adult Tigress appeared!! She gave a quick look either way, as she appeared from the forest, then walked steadily across at about 15m away, it was a superb view and there were further brief views as she disappeared into the vegetation. What an amazing way to round off our last jeep safari, and back at the Hotel everyone was buzzing over brunch.

After brunch we gathered luggage and transferred back to minibus transport and we now headed off to our next destination, Vangat. This took us through and along the Kosi river habitat and staring from the windows paid dividends as I located a species that had so far evaded us – the superb, tiny raptor Collared Falconet, sat perched top a dead tree.

We reached Vangat mid-afternoon and during a very enjoyable 2km walk to the camp, we were soon watching many new birds a Pallas’s Fish Eagle, Mountain Hawk-eagle and

1 Common Woodshrike, 10 Red-vented Bulbul, 10 Himalayan Bulbul, 3 Grey-hooded Warbler, Yellow-bellied Fantail, Cinerous Tit, 10 Oriental White-eye, Plumbeous Redstart, Grey Bushchat and Crested kingfisher.

Next, we all had fun crossing the river on the wooden raft. We were all fitted up with life-jackets & hard hats! Plus a Blue Rock Thrush, was flitting around rocks nearby. We arrived at the camp late afternoon, around the camp area there were Great, Lineated and Blue-throated Barbets, plus a stunning Rufous-bellied Niltava showing very well in the restaurant area in the shadows.

After a cup of tea we then took a short walk through the camp and along the river, we found Buff-barred Warblers, Grey-hooded Warbler and Red-billed Leiothrix, Kalij Pheasant, 1 Lesser Fish-Eagle, 2 Common Kingfisher, 3 Great Barbet, 1 Grey-headed Woodpecker, 11 Slaty-headed Parakeet, 10 Grey Treepie 1 Long-tailed Shrike, 20 Bronzed Drongo, 5 Red-billed Leiothrix, Indian Robin, Oriental Magpie-Robin,  White-capped & Plumbeous Redstart,  Grey Wagtail and  White-browed Wagtail.

As the sun dropped we watched on as around 40 Bronzed Drongo’s hawked insects over the stunning river, whilst Water Redstarts flitted from rock to rock. Above them, a group of 5 rare Ghoral (similar to Mountain Goats but in a separate genus of their own) fed shore footed on the vertical exposed cliffs, taking minerals!

Evening snacks were served around a campfire, before we moved to the dining table complete with glowing embers to keeps us warm, now we were higher up and in the open area dining area. Plenty of Sambar alarm calls could be heard, but we were safe inside the electrified fence of the camp!

The evening log was completed under candlelight and head torches, revealing our species total at just over 250 species now!

Overnight Vangat Camp

© Velvet-fronted Nuthatch

© Plum-headed Parakeet & Hanuman Langur

© Tiger & Indian Junglefowl

Monday 11^th December Vangat

This morning we were up early again and after tea and biscuits, we took a walk to explore the river pre-breakfast. There were excellent views of Wallcreeper on arrival by the river, this one showing well for a prolonged period on boulders close by. Two Great Hornbills were calling in the distance and we got very distant views, noting to rival our previous experience, but nice, nonetheless. The usual water redstarts and Wagtails were along the river, plus we had views of Red-billed Blue Magpie and Common Green Magpie feeding distantly in the trees, a Lesser Fish eagle flew along the river, a Brown Dipper passed by calling but wasn’t seen! Amusingly, the only group of the trip Woodpigeons also passed upriver.

We then headed towards the grassland and scrub areas, this proved fruitful with an unexpected group of 5+ Rufous Breasted Accentors appearing, a species usually seen much higher up, also here 10 Yellow-breasted Greenfinch, back around the camp a couple of Crimson Sunbirds, plus as we arrived back the “Sleeping buddha’ aka bird table was alive with birds coming to fruit and seeds that had been laid out. Red-billed Leiothrix, Blue-winged Siva, White-crested Laughingthrush, Grey-headed Woodpecker, Blue Whistling Thrush, Grey treepie  all showing very well.

Whilst enjoying the coming and goings of the bird table we had a hearty breakfast, and then discuss the rest of the morning’s plans. We split into two groups those that preferred to try and get pictures of the many birds in and around the camp and river area, then others who were happy to take a raft crossing, and a slightly more strenuous hike in the forest on the other side of the river!  We took the raft and then set off birding on to the other side of the river, we soon hit a nice flock of birds in the forest, with Fulvous breasted Woodpecker, Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker, Long-tailed and Scarlet Minivets, Common Woodshrike, Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrikes, Common Ioras. Yellow-bellied Fantail Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher, Himalayan Black-lored tit, Grey Hooded Warbler, Velvet-fronted and Chestnut-Bellied Nuthatch all featuring.

We then continued up to a waterfall area, a beautiful setting and befitting that a Little Forktail was showing very well and the vertical rock face!

It was now early afternoon and getting very warm, so we started heading back, but did find another nice smaller feeding flock, 3 Black-chinned Yuhina, were nice and shortly after we also located a Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher.

We arrived back for a late lunch at 2.30pm, we then all took a bit of time to birdwatch around the camp, a few more species were found with additional species for the tour – 2 Whistlers warblers and a Black-throated Sunbird.  Late afternoon we headed out for a walk around the river and grassland again, the definite highlights were eventual good views of Himalayan Rubythroat, a showy Hoopoe and nice perched views of Lesser Fish Eagle.

Evening snacks were served around a campfire, before we moved to the dining table for dinner. The evening log had us totalling around 264 species now. This was quite the end of the evenings observations though as a Porcupine visited the feeding area!

Overnight Vangat Camp

© Little Forktail & Crested Kingfisher

Tuesday 12^th December Vangat to Sattal

We had breakfast and then prepared to head off over the river via raft and then meet up back with the minibus to journey up to Sattal.

A brief look again at the feeders over breakfast produced Blue-winged Siva, Grey-headed Woodpecker and Red-billed Leiothrix, White-crested laughingthrushes and Great Barbets. We made our farewells to Vangat and were on the trail by 8am. En route we saw Lesser Fish Eagle and Himalayan Griffon. We crossed the river without incident, though a wonderful distraction was a group of Smooth coated Otters feeding in the rapids of the river, and on view for quite some time!

A brief stop was made at a local shop selling gifts in aid of local charities and then a birding stop at the dam area near Ramnagar which hosted in excess of 100 Ruddy Shelduck, single  a widevariety of Egrets and Cormorants, Green and Common Sandpiper, 200 Ruddy Shelduck, Gadwall, Red-rumped Swallow, Crested Treeswift, Common Moorhen,  Red-wattled Lapwing, Indian Pond Heron,  Black Kite, Steppe eagle and 2 White-throated Kingfisher before a hair-pin filled journey to Sattal.

We arrived at the Birders’ Den, our hotel for three nights, late afternoon and settled in.

Overnight Birders Den

Wednesday 13^th December Sattal Area.

In the grounds of the hotel, a hide overlooks a series of well stocked feeders, we started our birding here pre-breakfast at 7am, it started slowly but by 8am there was lots of birds coming and going, including several new species for the trip.

At times four species of Woodpecker; Lesser and Greater Yellownape, Brown-fronted and Grey-headed Woodpecker, plus Kalij Pheasants, Black Francolin, Grey-winged Blackbird, Blue-whistling Thrush, Streaked Laughing Thrush, Rufous chinned and White-crested Laughingthrush,  Grey Treepie and Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch. Just before breakfast called around 40 Oriental Turtle Doves arrived and were joined by the real characters around the White-throated Laughing Thrushes with their attitude and demeanour. Just outside reception there was a flowering bush, the nectar attracting several Green-tailed Sunbird, a stunning male was the photographers prize!

After a filling breakfast, we then headed to the Sattal studio. Birding area, this is always lively in the morning with plenty of passerines in the trees, today was the same with both Lemon-rumped and Buff-barred Warblers, Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher, Yellow-bellied Fantail, Bar-tailed Treecreeper, small group ofBlack-throated Tit and Velvet-fronted Nuthatch and Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch.

Also hear is nice low level stream running through dense vegetation, and we did wonderfully well with a Spotted Forktail giving prolonged and then a diminutive and shy Chestnut-headed Tesia, showing very well in the same area.

Our guide, Jaypee went off on his own to search for Brown Fish Owl but no look so we continued along the track. We had several more small flocks, and added Rufous Sibia, Red-billed Blue Magpie, Black Bulbul and Black-headed Jay to our list.

We then headed back for lunch, after lunch we took the minibus to the Gaula river area. The afternoon started brilliantly when Jaypee who had been tipped off, managed to find a roosting Tawny Fish Owl, it’s a large Owl with a wingspan just under 1.0m wide, beautiful patterned with rich yellow eyes. Next was the final and third forktail species, it took a bit of tracking down but eventually we all got good views of a Slaty-backed Forktail,  as it fed amongst the leaf litter in the riverbed, we also saw 2 more Spotted Forktails! Whilst searching for Forktails, a bonus bird was found a Long-billed Thrush, which spent over 30 minutes digging out leaf litter at the forest edge alongside the river. 

After this success we then headed much further downstream into the village area, there was quite a few Siberian Chiff-chaffs here, plus the usual assembly of riverine Wagtails and Redstarts. Though nearby it was pleasing to find our only Blue-capped Redstart of the trip.

Further along the river, a close Crested Kingfisher posed, and after some further searching we eventually tracked down 2 Brown Dipper, a species we had surprisingly not got properly to grips with at Vangat.

It had been an excellent day and we now headed back to Birders Den for showers and evening meals.

Overnight Birders Den

    ©

© Black-headed Jay & Red-billed Blue Magpie

© Kalij Pheasant & Emerald Dove

© Tawny Fish owl & Striated Laughingthrush

© Spotted Forktail & Great Barbet

© Brown fronted Woodpecker

Thursday 14^th December Sattal Area.

We were up again bright and early for tea and biscuits before heading to a pre-breakfast vigil at another hide and feeding station at Sattal Church bird hide, this was going to offer a lot oif similar species to Birders Den but with the opportunity for maybe 1-2 species that we hadn’t seen yet, and one particular partridge species.

Within minutes of arrival the feedstation was very busy! An incredible 55 Rufous Turtle Dove were soon present, plus 8 Red Junglefowl, 10 Kalij Pheasant, 3 Great barbet, Greater Yellownape, incredibly 5 species of Laughingthrush, with around 30 White-throated appearing, but also including a single Striated Laughingthrush which was a real stunner. On cue, after about an hour 6 Rufous-throated Partridges appeared, this was a species I’ve never seen here before, my only previous encounter was in Assam, so this was a real bonus. The photography was wonderful with close views a good light by 8am onwards, and both Rusty-cheeked Scimitar-Babbler and Red-billed Blue Magpie also appeared giving great photography opportunities!

We headed back for breakfast just before 9am, after breakfast I had a chat with everyone and we decided that the grounds and the hide were favourite until lunch, allowing each person opportunity to pursuit their preference, the feeders offered up Black Francolin, around the gardens there was a small flock of Nepal House Martins, plus nice views of a couple of Russet Sparrows and an Olive-backed Pipit.

After lunch in the the afternoon we headed back to the Gaula river area, we repeated quite a few species from yesterday and the Tawny Fish Owl was still present, we also had nice views of a Wallcreeper near the village, doing exactly what this species do on the vertical river bank! We also had brief views again of another Himalayan Rubythroat, but it wouldn’t pose for photography! As the light faded, it was time to head back, and we had our final evening meal at the Birders Den, the evenings log call suggested a total of 295 or 296 species.

Overnight Birders Den, Sattal.

© Rufous throated Partridge & Yellow-throated marten

Friday 15^th December Sattal to Delhi.

With a long journey in front of us, an early departure  was made but not before a brief look at the feeders where the assemblage of birds was similar to yesterday.

We stopped off in for coffee and a final meet up with Sumantha Ghosh, who had arranged much of our ground arrangements.  We also dropped off Jaypee our lovely guide over the whole trip. Each member of the group was given a mug as gift, inscribed with their name and a photograph of an Indian bird or mammal glazed on it. A lovely gesture and great memento of a wonderful trip. Our last task was to compete with the traffic in Delhi, not to be underestimated!

A meal was taken back at the Ashok Hotel before heading off to the airport at around 11pm and in good time for all pre-flight formalities to be completed in plenty of time for our overnight flight to Heathrow. Security and chedck-in was swift and we were soon relaxing over a beer, awaiting our gate to be called.

Saturday 16^th December – Delhi to Heathrow

We boarded on time and departed at 3.30am local Delhi time, flight was uneventful and we arrived back at London, Heathrow local time 730am. After collecting our luggage, we said our farewells, and everyone headed home in the grey wet British weather!

Systematic List of birds recorded.

Mammals recorded

Unusually for the first time on this tour we didn’t see Indian Elephant, though we did witness plenty of evidence of their presence round the camps, particularly at Vangat.